Feliz Navidad!

I was hoping to send you some pictures of christmas here, but it has not been easy. Not only because I began to leave my camera at home, but also because I discovered that I'm northern when it comes to christmas: it just doesn't feel right when its 30 degrees celsius! The approach to this summery christmas produced a strong rejection in me - the decorations seemed fake, the songs contrived, the food totally wrong. Everything imported, marketed, and "unauthentic".

I went shopping with my sister-in-law, and commenting on this, she seemed surprised. She has no recollection of christmas ever having been different. This led me to realize that it makes perfect sense for christmas traditions here to be "like everywhere else". After all, christmas was brought by the Spanish, and later "dressed up" by the Italians and Germans. Our most traditional christmas traditions are imports and unauthentic; plus, the wars against the indians here meant there was little of an indigenous culture to survive and be mixed with the Catholic (unlike Mexico, for example). Like anyone, the European immigrants of the 18th and 19th centuries brought their pine trees, santas, jingle bells and candles with them, independent of the weather. Once I realized this crap is not all the product of recent market globalization I felt free to actually enjoy a hot christmas!!

Now some info on what christmas here is like today. There is no pretty way of describing it so here is a bullet point list:
- There are LOTS of police! Theft shoots up, informal vendors proliferate and the police comes out in large numbers to protect shoppers.
-  A large segment of the daily news is dedicated to presents, both where to shop and how to manage the debt that will follow. This was said literally on TV news: "It is ok to buy presents on credit because christmas is a one time expense, its not structural like school".
- Traffic increases. This christmas I would like Santa to check everyone's breaks so they stop screaching. Then I would like him to disconnect the horn on every car.
- The things I love about christmas don't really happen here. Very few people have to travel anywhere (most people live with their family), so there is no sense of the country stopping. And its too hot to eat lamb, roast beef, roasted vegetables, etc. For example, we are eating cold stuffed tomatoes and eggs (I'm not complaining! just saying).

And finally a little bit about me- things are going well and Im excited to be entering a new phase soon. This means travel!!! First, new years in Buenos Aires with my friends (Lola!!) and cousins and my mom. Then I'll be spending Jan. 10 to Feb. 10 more or less in Valdivia, down south. (that is where I'll turn 33... aagh). Then back to Santiago for a family holiday in the countryside, and then end of February to end of March in Coyhaique, Aysén, the Chilean Patagonia. To get there: a 15 hour bus ride to Puerto Montt, then a 24-hour boat ride along the Pacific, then a 2 hour bus ride from the port to the town. Something like 2,200 km. Desparately seeking a friendly research assistant.... anyone??!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS, FELICES FIESTAS, HOPE YOU ARE ALL WELL AND I MISS YOU!

Chilean Catholic traditions - here is the manger, and on the 24th late at night, you put out baby Jesus. This manger is in the shopping gallery where we bought our presents.

The formal vendor is accused by the Police of having informally expanded his business (taking up like twice as much sidewalk as his kiosk allows), to sell wrapping paper and small presents. Its all very christmassy...